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Berlin is back, resuming its place as a great European capital. We climb the Reichstags glass dome, sway at a modern-day cabaret, and pop a few chocolates in the now thriving eastern sector. Along with Germanys finest art, complicated Berlin also has hidden remnants of its fascist and communist past. In a city thats rebounding and rebuilding, we crane our necks at Potsdamer Platz, Europes newest Times Square.